Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Every Job
The right kind of coating is crucial. If you pick the wrong paint, it won't matter how much effort and money you may spend on your job. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too early because poor quality primer and paint were used.
A dependable guideline is to match the existing covering. If you're painting or staining over a latex paint, recoat with latex. You might have all sorts of choices if the surface is uncoated, nevertheless, you still need to consider climate, maintenance, and durability to find the best paint for the job.
No-Fuss Painting Using Primers
Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It establishes how well the surface is protected and exactly how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers trips up painters about just as much as which primers to employ. Basically, you will need to use a primer if you are coating a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the only time you don't have to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a sound paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.
To ensure compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I mean a primer and top coat manufactured by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coats for various materials and conditions. Unless you want to cope with reading the small print, ask to view the spec, or data sheet, on a particular primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have more information than you will ever need and you may want help translating a few of the terms and specifications.
Primers form an even base for the top coats by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare surfaces. Without first priming a new or reconditioned surface, you'll find that the top finish end up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. While you may use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the error of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.
Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places which may have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will require a second coating of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below is an exemplory case of a job where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it a level base for the top coats. Some climates almost demand a second coat of primer. I've heard about one contractor in Florida who always double primes to guarantee that his work last. In the event that you live near to ocean water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.
Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trimming. You might think that a primer would smooth a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of trim it always feels rough. That's because primer forces out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for coats. (Here is a tip: In the event that you tint your primer the color of the top coat, it is possible to quicken the painting process by minimizing the amount of top coats needed. Tinting is mostly used for color changes, although it's also handy for surfaces like bare drywall.)
Take The Headache Out of Primers For Interior Wall Space and Ceilings
I recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior trouble spots, like the laundry room and shower, that need a good sealant and a water resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the home, although there are great latex primers that seal similarly as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bedrooms, living room, and closets. I spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.
Older houses call for room-by-room decisions on what primer to utilize. If the residence doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall surfaces and keeps water from getting between your surface and the paint.
Latex stain blockers and sealers might be the response to priming damp rooms in the house. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, cigarette smoke, and tannin spots, and they can be recoated very quickly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a great latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the benefits of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also serves as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You may warrant compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.
When it comes to walls, understand that plaster and drywall are different. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are lots of primers you can use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coat and finish that you've planned.
Drywall is a lot less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I understand that there are perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old practices are hard to break.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for just a little texture. Mixed with primer, joint compound also helps smooth over any sanding markings or roughness.
Improved Primers For Interior Wood
When selecting primer, you should think about the nature and condition of the surface, the sort of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the type of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).
Most often I prime interior trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost moisture in older wood. There's also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, such as the high moisture common in bathing rooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you can't prime all over the wood. If you can completely prime the wood before it is attached in place, an alkyd primer will protect almost all of the trim from wetness. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a specialist if your project has many different variables
Improved Exterior Primers
Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still would rather use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do an improved job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which often means that it's new), especially if I have access to the siding and wood trim before it is attached to the building. It's always better to seal all over the wood (however, not the ends) to provide each piece its own vapor barrier.
New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long period, even if the timber has air-dried for a few months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a moderate detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are rather porous, so you may need to wait a day or two to let them dry. There's a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coatings of any alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the final layers. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special wood cleaners.
Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a particular challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. In the event the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to remove all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially developed hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top layer, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.
Priming Solution For Metal Applications
Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough attachment with the surface. Most metal surfaces can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to remove, and may need more than just thinner. Check with your paint store if you need to be sure a primer will continue to work on new galvanized steel surfaces.
A couple of primers for each and every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to completely remove if you don't sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can stay that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the outer layer from contact with air. Some companies make reference to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller projects like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've experienced good luck using.
Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be covered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized material can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned above.
As with any top coat, the more time the primer is able to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're applied, for better or for worse. A clean surface is especially important when using an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies suggest against using any sort of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.
A vintage technique that still works well for cleaning new or old metals is washing the outer layer with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar can be an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a steel material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is helpful for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will harm the galvanizing.
Method For Priming Masonry
Be it inside or out, masonry usually needs a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually moisture, must be cured for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry must cure for 3 months before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.
Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be coated on masonry that is a week old. Stucco, which is basically colored mortar and full of lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. You also can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it's important that you utilize latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these situations I've had good luck adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I would recommend it for nearly all masonry applications.
Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only way to speed up the drying time of cement. You could still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another container of muriatic acid, that could be just fine. (If it etches cement, imagine how well it etches pores and skin!) Etching takes a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, don't forget a respirator, especially when you combine the acid with water. Important: Add the acid to the water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it will splash and burn anything it contacts. And blend it in the correct ratio, usually one to three. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.
Reconditioning older, peeling concrete floors can be considered a chore. You need to keep them well taken care of and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete floors in really sad condition should be sandblasted, or you can use a fresh system called Peel-Away that makes prepping masonry a lttle bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good shape, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.
For new cement floors, I would recommend a cement stain made by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My preference is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without needing scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top coating like latex.
Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top overcoat, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coat is best applied over a standard concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I'd add Penetrol to the primer for an extended lasting bond.
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